Road Groupsets: How to Choose a Road Bike for Beginners
How to choose a road bike for beginner? If you’re just getting into cycling, one of the biggest sources of confusion is the jargon around bike types. We’re here to help you tell the difference between road racers, sportive/endurance bikes, gravel and more, as well as different road groupset level.
Broadly, road bike types include: racing bikes, sportive/endurance bikes, cyclocross bikes, gravel bikes and triathlon bikes, even touring bikes. Technically, these categories are different, but the biggest differences are in the marketing. These similar machines trade out parts and tweak geometry, adding bigger tires or fender mounts, then christen it all as something new.
- Road racing bikes: sleek tyres, usually 23mm or 25mm wide, aggressive geometry and as light as possible. There’s a widespread belief that road racing bikes are uncomfortable, professional racers sit on these bikes for three weeks in the Tour de France.
Sportive/Endurance bikes: whether you’re planning a daily commute, a sportive or charity event, or just long Sunday rides, a sportive bike is a rather softer version of a road racing bike, intended to improve comfort for riders taking part in one-day challenge events.
These bikes have space for wider tyres (25mm, or 28mm). But with geometry usually have a more upright riding position to make them more comfortable over longer rides and rough roads.
Cyclo-cross bikes: they are riding off-road on a modified road bike with knobbly tires (usually wide 32mm, 42mm), lower gear ratios and mud clearance for tackling a variety of terrain. The geometry is tailored for riding off-road, with a higher bottom bracket and usually a slightly more relaxed head angle the key changes.
Cyclo-cross bikes from everything from the race to work, to long haul adventure riding, to simply messing about in woods, towpaths and trails all with a greater or lesser amount of race DNA in their genes.
Gravel/adventure bikes: they refer to the comfortable and stable geometry sought for the long haul, very similar to a cyclocross bike, tires usually wide 40mm ~ 50mm. Versatility is a vital part of the concept, so gravel bikes will accommodate racks and mudguards.
They’re great for riding dirt roads and less technical trails, but they’ll also roll along happily on the road too, and they point and laugh at potholes and crummy road surfaces. You can use them for commuting, adventure and even light touring (20 ~ 30lbs luggage).
Essentially road and cyclocross bikes are the racy version of on- and off-road respectively, whereas “endurance” and “gravel/adventure” bikes are the comfort version.
- Triathlon bikes: The geometry differences between triathlon bike frames and road bike frames make the triathlon bike more comfortable and efficient while using aero bars. If you are looking for a bike that will simply let you participate, then our suggest you choose a sportive road bike.
Determine which type you want to ridden, then according to your budget choice right bike for you. Bicycle quality and value for money mainly reference to two factors — frame material and groupset.
Set your budget
For frame materials, carbon fibre is now the most coveted road bike frame material, available in over $1000, while less than $1000 tag often with a lightweight aluminum frame. Don’t be ashamed of spending more if you feel like it, though.
Decent road bikes start from about $300; the more you spend the lighter and better specified a bike will be and components rapidly improves, bikes get lighter, more reliable and more fun to ride. It’s very rare for anyone to regret buying a bike that was ‘too good’ for them.
There is no right price. There’s a great choice between $300 and $600, and from $600 to $1000 you’re entering the territory of very capable road bikes. Beyond that, well, you’re entering a world of choice to suit all tastes.
Most around $1000 road bikes will be aluminium framed road bicycles, and perhaps a carbon fibre fork, this provides a good balance between reliability and robustness of the alloy frame, but with vibration absorption provided by the more compliant carbon material in the fork.
A groupset is a collection of matching components used by a bike manufacturer to turn a frame into a bike. A modern groupset usually comprises brakes, brake/gear levers, chainset, derailleurs, chain and sprockets.
When buying a bike look at the components it comes with. It is common for bike manufacturers to supply a bike with a whole groupset, minus the brakes and chainset. These are sometimes (but not always) swapped out for cheaper parts to bring the overall price of the bike down.
Shimano is the largest and best known, while the other two of the “big three” are Campagnolo and SRAM. These are the brands you’ll see almost exclusively on the groupsets fitted to bikes. A new entrant we’ll almost certainly see in the near future is FSA.
- Shimano currently offers the largest range of groupsets, starting with Claris and Sora, which are often found on entry-level road bikes between $500 and $800. Shimano currently produces Ultegra and Dura-Ace in electronic versions, denoted by Di2.
- SRAM essentially has four road groupsets, and offers the lightest commercially available groupset in SRAM Red, and the only wireless groupset in SRAM Red eTap. Apex is SRAM’s entry level and roughly comparable to Shimano’s Tiagra.
- Campagnolo products aren’t specced as original equipment on bikes as widely as components from either Shimano or SRAM because it caters only to the mid and high levels of the market. The entry-level groupset, Veloce starts higher than Shimano and sits above Sora and Tiagra.
Below table is just a rough guide to get you started. You can describe a groupset in these terms: Purpose, Quality and Cost.
|Shimano groupset||SRAM groupset||Purpose||Quality||Cost|
|Claris (catalogue number 2400, 8-speed)||—||Entry-level||So-so||$|
|Ultegra(6800, 11sp)||Force||Performance||Very Good||$$$$|
Buying a new road bike often means deciding between groupsets and the groupset is where a lot of the money in a new bike goes. The metal treatments and high-strength alloys that make pivots and bearings more durable and that also make parts lighter are expensive, so better groupsets are pricier.
The more expensive groupsets are lighter and usually offer smoother gear shifting and superior braking performance. You won’t find any carbon fibre in entry-level groupset, but its top-end groupset is positively dripping with composites, as well as a fair amount of titanium.
If you ride 10,000 miles per year, the reliability of an expensive groupset is a decent investment. If you’re a 2,000 mile-a-year weekend warrior, perhaps not so much. Shimano’s 105 or Ultegra are the best bet for a serious, mile crunching rider because the cheaper systems will wear out quickly.
Cheaper systems don’t have longevity and the top end can just get too expensive to be worthwhile for many cyclists. 105 is considered Shimano’s first performance groupset, and for many people it is the best option in combining, performance, value and longevity. And it was a true revelation, offering essentially all the ability and performance of Ultegra with only a slight weight disadvantage justifying its lower place in Shimano’s groupset hierarchy.
|Shimano hierarchy||Who should buy?|
|Tiagra||Recreational cyclists/sportif riders|
|105||Club racers, sportif riders. Anyone getting serious about their cycling.|
|Ultegra||Serious road cyclists/just plenty of training miles.|
|Dura-Ace||Serious racing cyclists or if you just have to have the best!|
Triple, double, compact – what’s the difference?
Chainsets housing the front gears can be split into two main categories – doubles and triples. A double has two chainrings while a triple has (you guessed it) three.
Chainsets are available in different ratios, for those new to cycling, the numbers refer to the number of teeth on the chainring and the bigger number, the bigger the gear. A bigger front gear is harder to push but can achieve higher speeds.
It’s generally considered that a triple crankset (30-42-53-tooth chainring setup), which will often come as standard on entry-level road bikes, is ideal for leisure riders or if you live in hilly areas – the extra help you’ll get from the ‘granny ring’ (the smallest ring) will provide some relief!
These are now fairly rare, because a compact chainset gets you gears that are almost as low while being lighter and simpler to use. Triples still ideal for really steep hills, riding in the mountains or carrying luggage.
Traditionalists and racers will usually opt for a double crankset, with 39- and 53-tooth chainrings a common standard. There’s a third option too: a compact double setup offering the best of both worlds with 34- and 50-tooth chainrings, offering a lower spread of gears for hill climbing.
A recent development is a halfway-house that’s being called a mid-compact or semi-compact, with chainring sizes of 52 and 36 teeth. This is a great option for fast riding in hilly terrain.